Method 1:
Desensitization is a gradual process If your dog is too fixated on the cat, you can try desensitization, the goal of which is to reduce your dog’s reaction to the cat by gradually increasing her exposure to him. Place the cat in a room with a tall baby gate across the door (such as a bedroom, bathroom, or spare room). The room you pick should be one that the dog can't go into and doesn't need to get into. If your dog sleeps in the same room as you at night, don't put the cat in that room. The plan is to keep them apart and only allow them to see each other at certain times. Give the cat everything he needs in his room: a litter box, toys, food, and water. Keep in mind that cats are excellent climbers and jumpers and can squeeze through narrow openings. As a result, make sure your cat can't get past the barrier you've erected. The gate should be a barrier that allows the cat and dog to view each other but prevents them from approaching each other. Allow the dog to see the cat briefly through the fence to begin desensitization, then redirect the dog's attention to something else, such as playing with a toy or practising commands. When you're trying to refocus the dog's attention, it can help to keep her on a leash so you can move her away from the cat. Praise and reward the dog for his ability to concentrate on anything else. Throughout the day, continue to offer the dog brief glimpses of the cat. Even seeing the cat for the first time can be too thrilling for the dog. Close the door and begin feeding each animal on his or her side of the door if this is the case: The dog eats her supper on the other side of the door, while the cat eats his in his chamber, right next to the door. This enables one animal to associate the other's odours with something positive: food. You may even swap out one animal's blankets and bedding, giving it to the other. That way, the dog and the cat can become accustomed to each other's scents without overstimulating either of them.
Method 2 :
Introduction by face-to-face This is a faster-paced version of the introduction. One person should keep a loose leash on the dog and observe the dog's body language. Someone else should keep an eye on the cat's expressions. Allow the cat to wander about freely if he is not rising his back or hissing at the dog. A cat rarely poses a threat to a dog, but some cats will go on the attack when they encounter one. If the dog is calm around the cat, you can ask her to sit or lie down and stay if she has been taught such commands, while the cat roams freely, sniffing the dog if he so desires. If the dog ignores the cat, she should be praised and rewarded. If the dog is overly preoccupied on the cat (e.g., gazing at the cat, rigid body language, or refusing to listen to you when you call her name) or lunges and tries to chase the cat, you
Method 3 : Look at That If the rapid introduction does not work and your dog is still reacting to the cat, you may need to try more formal training. You can help your dog learn not to fixate on the cat by playing Look at That (LAT) with her. You'll be teaching her to gaze at the cat and then return her gaze to you in exchange for a treat. In other words, she'll discover that ignoring the cat is more rewarding.
Step 1: Choose a sound, speech, or visual cue to show your dog that she's doing something good and will be rewarded with a treat. Popular markers include clickers and a vocal "yes" or "good."
Step 2: Click the clicker or utter the word and instantly give your dog a treat to educate her that the marker always implies a treat is on the way. Rep this process until she looks at you expectantly anytime you use the marker.
Step 3: With the dog on a leash, approach the trigger from a safe distance. You should be far enough away from your dog that she notices her trigger but does not react. Use your marker as soon as she looks at the trigger. In anticipation of the treat, she should turn toward you. Give her the treat after she finishes. Rep 10–15 times more.
Tip: If she doesn't turn toward you, go back to Step 2 or put more distance between her and the trigger.
Step 4: When she looks at her trigger without reacting, notice if she looks back at you in anticipation of the marker, and treat after she looks at her trigger. If this is the case, mark it and then treat it. If not, go back to the first step.
Step 5: Gradually reduce the distance between your dog and the trigger, one foot at a time. If she doesn't react, keep using your marker and goodies. As the distance reduces, you may need to switch between Steps 3 and 4.
Tip: If your dog begins to respond, simply increase the distance between her and the trigger until she is no longer bothered, then resume training. Proofing means teaching the dog to generalize the behaviour in different contexts.
It’s important to practice LAT often with your dog. When you first start, you will want to practice in the same environment, someplace that is low-stress for your dog. If your dog is reactive toward other dogs, make sure that you are practicing with a calm, non-reactive dog as the trigger.